As the rain kept falling on the Kletterzentrum, the women’s Lead final started on the wrong foot, as four of the first six athletes on the wall all fell on the same dynamic move and scored 22+.
The two final climbers taking the wall, however, were worth the wait.
First, it was Japan’s Mori Ai, who spent quite some time on the crucial section, but once she surpassed it, she cruised towards the top and secured the last quickdraw with more than 15 seconds left on the clock, putting all the pressure in the world on her rival Janja Garnbret’s shoulders.

Janja Garnbret. Marcel den Ouden

Two days after winning Boulder gold in the very same venue, the Slovenian 25-year-old put on a show for most of her climb, but ended up struggling to read one of the last moves and spent more than one minute trying to find the way to unlock it. Eventually, the Tokyo 2020 champion managed to survive the move and sealed the top score with only three seconds left.
“Every single win means a lot to me, because I’m always with my feet on the ground, I don’t take things for granted, I’m always focused and determined to win, the feeling is incredible every single time,” commented Garnbret.

Ai Mori. Marcel den Ouden

“This was my last World Cup before the Olympics. I will go home and take some time to rest, and then train until Paris 2024!”

Seo Chaehyun. MArcel den Ouden

Thanks to a better placement in the semi-final round, Garnbret won gold – making it now 28 in total in Lead World Cup competitions – while Mori had to settle for silver.
The podium was completed by Seo Chaehyun of South Korea with 36. Austria’s Jessica Pilz, Bulgaria’s Alexandra Totkova, USA’s Annie Sanders, and Austria’s Mattea Pôtzi took positions from fourth to seventh with 22+, mirroring the order they were ranked at the end of the semi-final. China’s Zhang Yuetong closed in eighth place with 21+.